30 November 2024 A Journey Along the Mekong
From Sakon Nakhon to Mukdahan
With the Mekong River as our destination, today’s journey promised a blend of scenic landscapes, cultural discoveries, and unexpected encounters. We checked out of our hotel in Sakon Nakhon in the morning, setting off toward Mukdahan, where we planned to settle for a few days at B2 Mukdahan Boutique and Budget Hotel. Our route would take us northeast until we met the river, then south along its banks through Nakhon Phanom, tracing its winding currents toward our final stop.
Temples, Riverside Scenes, and Local Life
The first leg of our journey was filled with fascinating temples. We made a brief stop at Wat Mai Khlong Udom, taking in its peaceful atmosphere before continuing to Wat Prathat Mahachai, where the intricate architecture invited quiet admiration. The drive itself was comfortable, weaving through stretches of countryside, until we finally reached Nakhon Phanom, where the sight of the Mekong came into view.
It was here we came to another crossing point in Thailand. This being the Thetsaban Mueang Nakhon Phanom Thakhek crossing point. Here the border is crossed by boat.
Stepping out for a stroll along the river, we soaked in the bustling energy of the riverside community. One of the most memorable sights was a man playing a mandolin-style folk guitar, effortlessly strumming away beneath his traditional woven bamboo hat, a small yet striking glimpse into the everyday charm of the area.
Nearby, Phanom Naga Park surprised us with its collection of Flying Ghost statues—Phi Yon, figures believed to embody ancestral spirits with acrobatic skills, dedicated to protecting their descendants. The statues stood eerily suspended in motion, each one telling a story beyond words.
Café Art and Friendship Bridges
Taking a detour through the back streets, we admired the lively collection of colourful tuk-tuks, weaving their way through the local markets, before jumping back into the car for the next stretch of road. A fuel stop led us to Cafe Amazon, where we unexpectedly stumbled upon beautiful Great Wall murals—a fun coincidence, as they happened to perfectly match Alison’s T-shirt.
Back on the road, we passed Wat Hua Wiang, a peaceful riverside temple where Steve took a quiet walk inside, taking in the temple’s serene atmosphere. As we continued south, we drove past the second Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, standing as a significant link between the two neighbouring countries. The nearby Border Pass Office in Mukdahan served as a reminder of how closely intertwined the cultures and economies of Thailand and Laos remain.
Mukdahan Arrival and Sunset by the River
By mid-afternoon, we rolled into Mukdahan and checked into our hotel, eager to stretch our legs after a full day of driving. After a short rest, we were drawn back to the riverfront, where we found a charming café with an outdoor table overlooking the water—the perfect spot to unwind. With a cold Chang beer in hand and a plate of simple, delicious food in front of us, we sat back and watched as the sun dipped behind the Mekong, painting the sky with golden reflections across the river’s surface.
1 December 2024: A Day of Reflection and Relaxation
After the previous days of travel and exploration, today was set aside for a well-earned rest day, balancing discovery with a slower pace.
Our morning began with a visit to Wat Roi Phra Phutthabat, a temple perched high on the mountainside, commanding breathtaking views over the Mekong River below. The temple is home to a massive Buddha statue, which we had first encountered years ago when construction was still underway. Seeing the progress since then was fascinating—the Buddha now stands with striking presence, though parts of the temple remain unfinished, awaiting further refinement.
A striking feature of the site is the enormous Naga, a mythical serpent-like creature woven into Buddhist lore as a guardian of temples and waterways. Its impressive design adds an air of mystery and grandeur to the temple complex, reminding visitors of the deep spiritual traditions embedded in Thai culture.
After soaking in the peaceful atmosphere and marvelling at the craftsmanship, we made our way back to Mukdahan, shifting gears to embrace the local street scenes on foot. Walking through the city, we enjoyed the everyday rhythms—vendors setting up their stalls, families going about their routines, and the gentle hum of daily life unfolding.
For lunch, we opted for a familiar favourite, heading to the BigC Food Court, where we indulged in simple yet satisfying Thai flavours. The familiar setting provided an opportunity to enjoy a good meal before we settled in for a relaxed afternoon, resting up and unwinding as the sun slowly dipped toward the river.
2 December 2024: A Scenic Drive Along the Mekong to Ubon Ratchathani
After a less-than-restful 2 nights at Hotel B2, we were eager to move on. Normally, these hotels offer decent accommodation, but this time, we found ourselves contending with one of the most uncomfortable beds imaginable—a warped frame and a steel bar pressing beneath the back made for a night of tossing and turning. Luckily, today’s destination was a much happier one: our favourite hotel in Ubon Ratchathani, known for its soft beds and fantastic breakfasts.
Setting off in the morning, we chose to take the scenic route, staying close to the banks of the Mekong River as we made our way south. The journey was relaxing, with quiet stretches of road revealing picturesque landscapes and glimpses of daily life unfolding in riverside villages.
One of the most memorable stops of the day was Samphanbok, a dramatic natural formation sculpted by the Mekong’s waters. The vast rocky terrain, filled with potholes, canyons, and pools, felt almost otherworldly—an impressive testament to nature’s artistry. The interplay between water and stone here made it one of the most striking sights we’ve encountered along this stretch of the river.
Further along, we arrived at Two Colour River, where the Mekong and Mun Rivers meet. This confluence is famous for its two-toned waters, though today, the difference was more subtle than expected. Standing at the edge of the rivers and taking in the view, we were reminded of the natural beauty and cultural importance of these waterways. Nearby, Wat Khong Chiam offered a peaceful break, with intricately designed buildings and a serene atmosphere adding depth to our visit.
Continuing our journey, we stopped at Wat Tham Khoo Ha, home to what might be one of the largest gongs in Thailand—or even the world. Its sheer size made it an attraction all on its own, standing as a quirky landmark in an already beautiful temple setting. The view of the Mekong from here was impressive, though spotting the famous colour divide between the rivers remained elusive.
By mid-afternoon, we finally arrived in Ubon Ratchathani, pulling into our favourite hotel with relief. There’s nothing quite like the comfort of a familiar place, and this hotel’s soft beds and excellent breakfast offerings made the journey feel even more rewarding. After settling in, we headed to Ratchabut Road, where the evening markets were already buzzing with life.
As the sun set, we immersed ourselves in the vibrant energy of the stalls—soaking in the colours, sampling delicious street food, and watching the local community come together. It was the perfect way to wrap up a long day on the road.
3 December 2024: A Relaxed Day in Ubon Ratchathani
The morning started on a high note with an incredible breakfast—not your standard buffet, but a thoughtfully prepared selection of fresh, made-to-order dishes. The kind of meal that instantly sets the tone for a great day.
Opting for a slow-paced itinerary, we spent the day exploring Ubon Ratchathani, soaking up the local atmosphere without rushing from place to place. A highlight of the day was our visit to Wat That Nong Bua, a stunning temple known for its unique architectural style inspired by India’s Mahabodhi Stupa. Its towering white and gold structure, detailed carvings, and peaceful grounds made it a lovely place for reflection.
With the afternoon set aside for rest and relaxation, we took things easy before heading out for dinner. BigC’s meal section was the choice of the evening—a casual but satisfying experience where we enjoyed local flavours in a laid-back setting.
The walk back to the hotel was nothing short of magical, framed by a beautiful sunset casting golden hues over the city streets. It was the perfect way to end a simple yet fulfilling day
4 December 2024: A Day of Discovery and Dazzling Twilight
After another magnificent breakfast that set the stage for a memorable day, we eagerly set off on our adventure. Today’s journey would weave through diverse landscapes—from the industrious hum of a modern dam to the charming rhythms of a border crossing, and finally, to a magical twilight display at Wat Sirindhorn Wararam, known locally as The Glow Temple.
Our day began with a gentle stop at Wat Pa Wai, a small yet tranquil temple that provided us with a well-earned leg stretch. Nestled amid lush foliage and quiet courtyards, the temple’s modest structures offered a serene space for reflection. Carved Buddha statues and delicate murals hinted at the deep history of this sacred spot, inviting us to pause and appreciate a moment of calm before the road beckoned us onward.
Shortly after, we refuelled at a local PTT station, where the warmth of Thai hospitality shone through even in such practical settings. While topping up our tank, we savoured refreshing coffees and a light snack, all the while admiring a few thoughtfully curated murals on the station’s walls—artwork that blended modern design with traditional Thai motifs. This brief interlude was a welcome pick-me-up before we continued along the winding back roads.
Our next cultural stop was Wat Pa Sang Sap, a quaint temple whose peaceful aura and humble design stood in delightful contrast to the day’s later splendour. The temple’s simple wooden structures, adorned with modest golden accents, resonated with the quiet spirituality of its surroundings. We took a leisurely stroll through its courtyards, feeling the history and tranquillity of the place seep into our souls.
As we drove farther along the rugged dirt roads near Sirindhorn Dam, the landscape transformed into a fascinating blend of engineered might and natural beauty. The dam itself loomed large on the horizon, its concrete walls and cascading waters a striking sight against the clear blue sky. At one point, we paused at Wat Buppharam, perched right on the dam’s edge. Here, traditional Thai fishing boats lay tied along the water’s margin, bobbing gently as the dam’s exceptionally high water levels mirrored the sky. The juxtaposition of ancient architecture with modern industry was a powerful reminder of Thailand’s knack for melding tradition with progress.
Later in the afternoon, we ventured to a public area managed by the Thai Government near the dam wall. This expansive space was bursting with vibrant wildflowers, their colours a vivid counterpoint to the rugged, engineered surroundings. Wandering among the blossoms, we were reminded of the delicate balance between human enterprise and nature’s enduring beauty.
Our journey then led us to the bustling border crossing at Chong Mek, where Thailand meets Laos. This lively checkpoint was more than just a transit point—it was a microcosm of cross-border commerce and community. Local markets lined the area, alive with stalls selling fresh meat, an array of vegetables, and assorted wares. The vibrant aromas and animated chatter provided a sensory feast, illustrating the rich cultural tapestry of this borderland.
As the afternoon gave way to evening, we ascended to Wat Sirindhorn Wararam. Perched high on a mountainside, this renowned Glow Temple offers sweeping views of the surrounding countryside and, notably, of the distant Sirindhorn Dam. We arrived just as the fading sunlight began to work its magic. Over the next couple of hours, the temple transformed: glow-in-the-dark paints gradually illuminated its details, making the structure shimmer against the darkening sky. The effect was utterly mesmerising—a stunning interplay of traditional temple architecture and contemporary visual enchantment. As the sun set, the skies erupted into a brilliant array of colours reflected off the dam’s waters in the distance, creating a scene of surreal beauty.
Satisfied yet awed by the day’s discoveries, we eventually began our journey back to Ubon Ratchathani. The drive, though lengthy, was made more pleasant by the comfort of our memories and a brief, familiar pit stop at KFC, which provided that cosy reminder of home along the way.
Today was a celebration of contrasts—from serene temples and rustic back roads to engineered marvels and natural artistry. Each stop unfurled like a chapter in an ever-changing story, leaving us with vivid impressions and a deep appreciation for the low-key wonders and vibrant cultural moments that make travel so enriching.
5 December 2024: A Day to Slow Down and Enjoy Ubon Ratchathani
Waking up to a beautiful sunrise, we couldn’t have asked for a better start to the day. The early morning light bathed the city in golden hues, filtering softly through the window as we eased into another relaxed morning in Ubon Ratchathani. Breakfast at the hotel was, as expected, absolutely fantastic—freshly cooked dishes rather than the usual buffet, making the experience feel more personalised and thoughtful.
Enjoying a leisurely meal, we caught up on the news and reflected on how much we had enjoyed our time in this vibrant city.
With no fixed schedule pressing us forward, we embraced the slow pace, allowing ourselves to simply enjoy Ubon Ratchathani’s atmosphere. Mid-morning, we ventured out to explore more of the local sights, starting with Chedi Atthi Luang Pu Cha. Unlike many of the temples we had visited recently, this one immediately stood out thanks to its unique chedi structure, completely coated in gold. The intricate details shimmered under the daylight, giving it a truly majestic presence. Walking around, we admired the craftsmanship, taking a moment to appreciate the temple’s tranquil surroundings before moving on.
Later in the day, we found ourselves wandering through Warin Chareon Si Market, one of the largest local markets in the area. The energy here was infectious—stalls spilling out into the street, vendors enthusiastically promoting their goods, and the rich scent of fresh produce filling the air.
The market seemed to offer a little bit of everything, from fragrant Thai spices to colourful textiles and handcrafted wares. More than the sights, though, it was the warmth of the local people that made this visit so enjoyable. Thai hospitality was truly on full display as vendors chatted with us, smiling and offering insights into their goods.
Some conversations were brief but heartfelt, reinforcing why these everyday exchanges are such an essential part of experiencing a place.
From there, we stumbled upon one of the day’s most delightful surprises—a stop at Ratchathani University, where we spotted something truly unique: a giant aeroplane repurposed as a kindergarten classroom! What an incredible idea for young children, turning an ordinary school day into a playful adventure within the shell of an aircraft. Though the facility was closed today, just seeing the plane and imagining how the kids must interact with such an extraordinary learning space made the visit worthwhile.
As afternoon rolled in, we returned to the hotel to rest and do some pre-packing, taking a moment to unwind before heading out for one final evening in Ubon Ratchathani. Wanting to soak in the local culture once more, we made our way to the Ratchabut Road markets for dinner. The vibrant stalls, steaming plates of delicious food, and the hum of conversation provided the perfect send-off to our time here. Walking through the streets, watching the market come alive under the glow of streetlights, we couldn’t help but reflect on how much we love this city.
