16 January 2026 – Day 64 — Indigo Blues, G.Duck Treasures & A Slow, Easy Day
Today was an easy day, the kind you only appreciate after weeks of temples, climbs, festivals and long drives. We started with a quick catch‑up with Martin, our Dutch expat friend, before heading out for a gentle morning walk.
Our main destination was Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Worawihan, one of Sakon Nakhon’s most important temples. Even on a quiet day, the place has a calm, steady energy — gold trim catching the light, monks moving quietly between buildings, locals stopping to pray or light incense. The temple grounds are beautifully kept, and the central stupa rises clean and bright against the sky.
We came here with a mission: to buy Alison a new indigo‑blue top. Sakon Nakhon is famous for its indigo dyeing traditions, and the stalls around the temple always have something special. After browsing through racks of deep blues, soft cottons and hand‑stitched patterns, Alison found a top she loved — rich indigo, simple, and beautifully made.
From there, we wandered over to G.Duck, which is basically the Thai version of a 19‑baht shop ($1 shop) — bright, cheerful, full of quirky little things you never knew you needed until you saw them. Stickers, keychains, stationery, tiny home gadgets, cartoon‑themed odds and ends… it’s the kind of place where you go in for “just a look” and come out with a small bag of fun, inexpensive treasures.
Next stop was Big C, where we picked up lunch and dinner supplies before heading back to the hotel. The rest of the afternoon was deliberately slow: washing, TV, reorganising and repacking our bags. A reset day — practical, quiet, and oddly satisfying.
Day 64 didn’t have big climbs or dramatic views, but it had colour, calm, and the simple pleasure of wandering through a favourite town with no rush at all.
17 January 2026 – Day 65 — Stone Bridges, Mekong Coffee & A Comedy of Hotel Errors
Today we said goodbye to Sakon Nakhon and headed north toward Bueng Kan. The drive was peaceful, and our first official stop was a place simply known as Stone Bridge — a natural rock formation where the road crosses a river by travelling over a huge slab of stone while the water flows beneath it.
We pulled over, got out of the car, and walked across the bridge ourselves. It’s amazing to stand on a functioning road and realise that an entire river is rushing underneath your feet, using nothing but this natural rock formation as its channel. The sound of the water echoing below and the cool air rising from the gap made it feel like a hidden geological wonder tucked into the countryside.
To get there, we’d driven through endless rubber tree plantations, the bowls beneath each tree filling steadily with milky sap. Rubber production was in full swing, and the whole area had that quiet, industrious feel.
Our next stop was a tiny café perched on the banks of the Mekong River, barely 200 metres from Laos. Steve ordered a cappuccino, Alison a caramel milk, and we sat on the shaded veranda watching fishermen work the slow, wide river. Steve declared it the best cappuccino of the trip — smooth, strong, and perfectly made. The Mekong has a way of making even a simple drink feel like a moment.
From there we visited Wat Pa Muang Hueng, a small but stunning temple overlooking the Mekong. Its gold shimmered against the river backdrop, and the smoke levels — noticeably better here than in recent weeks — made the colours pop even more. The air felt clearer, lighter, easier to breathe.
We continued driving north, following the river as closely as the roads allowed, until we reached Bueng Kan.
Checking into the hotel turned into a bit of a saga.
Despite booking directly through their website — and paying — the staff couldn’t find our reservation. They sent Alison back to the car to retrieve email confirmations, which they photographed, frowned at, and then asked us to wait while they “investigated.” After ten long minutes, the booking magically appeared, and we were handed a key to a room on the 5th floor.
The hotel had advertised itself as “recently refurbished,” but the room suggested otherwise. Still, this is Thailand — we smiled, shrugged, and carried on.
Around 4pm, we walked up to the walking street, which was full of the usual Thai food stalls. The location will be incredible in a year or two once the two massive riverfront zones are finished, but for now it’s mostly a dusty construction site with potential. After a quick look around, we decided to head back to Lotus’s for dinner and call it an early night.
But Thailand had one more surprise for us.
Around 8pm, the convention hall next to the hotel fired up with loud thump‑thump music — the kind that vibrates through walls and pillows. It seemed we couldn’t win a trick today. And to top it off, Alison developed a slight tickle in her throat. Oh dear.
Day 65 had beauty, frustration, river views, and a few laughs — a classic travel day where the unexpected becomes part of the story.
18 January 2026 – Day 66 — A Rough Night, A Northern Quest & Salvation by Cappuccino
Last night was… yukkie. Sometimes you book a “deluxe suite” in what looks like a great hotel and instead get whammied. The thump‑thump music from the convention hall next door went late into the night, the air‑conditioner wheezed like it was on its last legs, and the room smelled heavily of deodorisers. Not a great combination.
The morning didn’t start much better.
Alison woke with a cough, and breakfast was a scene straight out of a travel documentary — a room full of tourists racing each other to shovel down as much food as possible before piling into their enormous bus. We quietly hoped they were the source of last night’s noise and that they wouldn’t be putting on a repeat performance tonight.
By 8am, the bus was loaded, the tourists were gone, and serenity finally returned.
With the peace restored, we set off on a small mission: to stand at the most northern point of Issan. It sounded simple, but the reality was a bit more of a treasure hunt. We drove west for about 30 minutes, stopping at a few viewpoints and small wats along the way, each one offering glimpses of the Mekong and the hazy Laos mountains.
Along the way we also stopped at the 5th Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge, still not officially opened but clearly very close. Standing beside a brand‑new international bridge — pristine, quiet, waiting for its first wave of traffic — felt like peeking into the future. Another link between Thailand and Laos, almost ready to come alive.
When we finally reached the northernmost point, it was a little overgrown, but there was a sign to photograph and a beautiful backdrop of Laos’ mountains rising softly through the haze. A quiet, understated moment — but satisfying.
From there, we decided the afternoon should be completely non‑productive, so we returned to the café on the Mekong — home of Thailand’s best cappuccino.
“Two, please.”
And just like that, the frustrations of the last 24 hours blew away on the river breeze. Mmm.
A few hours passed easily — two meals, four cappuccinos, and a whole lot of river watching. The Mekong has that effect.
On the drive back, we stumbled upon a 10‑kilometre stretch of road that hugs the Mekong all the way to Bueng Kan. When it’s finished, it will be spectacular — a true riverfront drive.
Back at the hotel, Alison put her head down early and fell asleep quickly. Hopefully she’ll be right for tomorrow’s drive.
Dinner was skipped entirely — after such a filling lunch, neither of us could manage another bite.
19 January 2026 – Day 67 — Quiet Mornings, Mekong Sandbanks & Dinner Under a 747
After the chaos of the last few nights, we finally had a quiet sleep — no thump‑thump music, no vibrating walls, no mystery deodoriser clouds. Bliss. Even better, Alison seemed much brighter this morning.
Breakfast was a huge improvement too: southern‑style chicken on rice, simple, warm, and far more civilised than yesterday’s tourist stampede.
Today we travelled westward along the Mekong, making our way toward Nong Khai. The river was never far from view, wide and calm, with Laos sitting quietly on the opposite bank.
One of our first stops was at a point where the signs indicated that the Laos border sits extremely close to Thai terra firma. We walked out onto the sandy riverbed — a rare chance to stand almost in the Mekong rather than beside it. This spot is known as Kaeng A Hong, a natural attraction where the river narrows and deepens dramatically. The sand underfoot, the slow swirl of the water, and the sense of standing between two countries made it a memorable pause.
Further along, we stopped at two temples, including the International Buddhist Park. The sculptures here are enormous and striking — towering figures, sweeping forms, and a sense of scale that makes you feel very small in the best possible way. It’s one of those places where you wander slowly, taking in the artistry and the quiet.
We arrived in Nong Khai in the early afternoon and settled into the hotel before heading out again for dinner.
Tonight’s destination: Chic Chic Markets — one of the most unique dining experiences in Thailand. Here, you eat under the wings of a retired Thai Airways 747, its huge fuselage looming overhead like a guardian of the food stalls. At the back of the market sits another aircraft, where locals were using the shade beneath the tail as an impromptu exercise area. Only in Thailand do you find people doing aerobics under a jumbo jet.
Dinner was relaxed, the atmosphere lively, and the whole setting wonderfully surreal — a perfect Nong Khai welcome.
Day 67 was calm, quirky, and full of small surprises — from sandy Mekong riverbeds to giant Buddha sculptures to dining beneath a 747. A good day all round.
20 January 2026 – Day 68 — A Picturesque Mekong Drive & A Rest Day for Recovery
Alison didn’t sleep well last night — a head cold had well and truly settled in — so the morning started slowly. We had a light breakfast, keeping things simple, before continuing our journey west along the Mekong River.
This stretch of road is one of the most picturesque drives in Issan. The Mekong here is full of rocky outcrops and narrow channels, the kind that make the river look alive and restless. At certain points the mountains squeeze the river, forcing it into dramatic bends and fast‑moving sections. On the Laos side, we could see enormous quarries carved into the mountains, huge scars in the rock that looked both impressive and slightly surreal.
We made a quick stop at Wat Pha Tak Suea, a temple perched high above the river. Even with the lingering haze, the view over the Mekong into Laos was beautiful — wide, calm, and layered with soft blues and greys. It’s the kind of lookout that makes you pause without even thinking about it.
By around 2pm, Alison was fading, so we decided to head straight to our hotel and give her the chance to rest properly. She slept on and off for the rest of the afternoon and much of the night, the kind of deep, necessary sleep that only comes when your body insists on it.
Day 68 was quiet, scenic, and gentle — a day shaped by the Mekong’s beauty and the simple need to rest and recover.
21 January 2026 – Day 69 — A Slow Loei Morning, Street Art Wandering & A Light Market Dinner
We woke to a slow start in Loei. After a rough few days, Alison finally slept well, though she was still groggy and clearly not back to full strength. Breakfast was crowded, but we managed to find something simple to get us both moving — nothing fancy, just enough fuel for the morning.
Alison made the sensible call to rest for the day, so Steve laced up his shoes and headed out to explore Loei on foot. The town has a relaxed charm, and wandering without a plan turned out to be the perfect way to take it in.
He found pockets of local street art, bright splashes of colour tucked into laneways and walls — and, true to form, took many, many photos. He browsed a few local shops, the kind filled with everyday Thai life: snacks, stationery, household bits, and the occasional quirky surprise.
At one point he stopped at Chaw Boi Coffee. The verdict: “ok… not too bad.” Not a glowing review, but enough to keep the caffeine levels steady.
By evening, Alison felt well enough to join Steve for a gentle walk to a local market. The air was cooler, the pace slower, and it was nice just to be out together again. They found a light dinner, something easy and comforting, before heading back to the hotel for an early night.
Day 69 was quiet and restorative — a day of small steps, street art, and letting the body catch up. Exactly what was needed.
22 January 2026 – Day 70 — Mountain Roads, Vibrant Temples & A Long‑Awaited Stop
Alison still wasn’t 100% this morning, so we kept things simple.
Hotel breakfast was very traditional Thai — no hot dishes at all — so we stuck to our own Australian coffee and toast before getting on the road.
Today was a longer drive, our route cutting through the mountains as we continued west from Loei to Phitsanulok. As we were leaving Loei, we passed a Chinese temple with a huge golden thousand‑armed Guanyin statue. The whole place had the feel of a freely painted temple — colours so vibrant they almost glowed.
Our next stop was something that has been on our to‑do list for a long time:
The Phi Ta Khon – Wat Phon Chai Museum.
This cultural hub preserves and showcases the famous Phi Ta Khon festival, its masks, and local traditions. The masks themselves are wonderfully expressive — long faces with curved noses, wide dramatic eyes, and tall flared tops made from coconut‑tree sheaths. The colours are bold and bright, often swirling across the woven sticky‑rice basket base. Many have hand‑painted teeth and small fabric streamers, giving each mask its own personality. No two are alike, and seeing them up close really brings the festival’s playful spirit to life.
By 3pm, we stopped at Rong Je Sai Tee Hook Tung to stretch our legs and revisit the Chinese shop/temple there.
We checked into our Phitsanulok hotel around 4pm, dropped our bags, and took a short rest.
By 5pm, we were out walking again to catch the sunset over Wat Chan Tawan Tok. The Nan River looked full and calm, reflecting the warm evening colours and giving us a lovely photo opportunity to end the day.