6 December 2024: Roosters, Clifftop Temples, and a Warm Welcome in Buri Ram
Our final morning in Ubon Ratchathani began with one last delicious breakfast, a meal that had never let us down throughout our stay. With full stomachs and a lingering appreciation for this wonderful city, we set off westward, following the Thai-Cambodian border as we ventured toward new discoveries.
The first stop of the day was Wat Phrai Phatthana, a temple that took Thailand’s well-known love for roosters to a whole new level.
From small wooden carvings to towering statues, roosters adorned nearly every corner of the site. It was a sight to behold—an almost overwhelming display of symbolism and craftsmanship, woven into the fabric of the temple’s design.
Beyond the feathery tributes, the temple grounds also housed what could best be described as a Khmer-styled monastery, either newly built or freshly refurbished. Its intricate architecture, reminiscent of Cambodia’s grand temple tradition, added an extra layer of fascination to the visit. Alison purchased a new rooster for our collection. 
Continuing our journey, we arrived at Wat Khaosala, a temple perched near the Cambodian border. The views from here were breathtaking—wide, open landscapes stretching far into the horizon. Adding to the spectacle was the emergence of a new temple, its foundations set high among the cliffs. It was fascinating to see such a grand structure in the early stages of construction, promising a future landmark that would no doubt be a stunning sight once complete.
By late afternoon, we reached Buri Ram, settling into our usual hotel, where we were once again met with the familiar warmth of its staff. The place always feels like home—a welcoming stop that adds an extra layer of comfort to the journey.
After a long day on the road, stretching our legs was a must, so we headed out for a walk through Buri Ram, letting the lively energy of the city draw us in. It wasn’t long before we stumbled upon a night bazaar and local markets, where we sat down for a well-earned dinner. The meal was amazing—bold flavours, rich aromas, and the perfect way to round off a day spent exploring temples and landscapes.
7 December 2024: Temple Trails, Border Detours, and Cambodia’s Glittering Edge
Leaving behind the familiar comfort of Buri Ram, we set off for the eastern beaches of Thailand with excitement and curiosity fuelling our journey.
Early on the highway, we passed a fascinating machinery graveyard that immediately captured our attention. Tucked along the fence line were about a dozen jeeps in various states of rust and decay—each one telling its own story of off-road adventures and long-forgotten journeys. The sight was somewhat surreal; a testament to the relentless passage of time and the inevitable overthrow of even the toughest machines.
A quick caffeine injection at Cafe Amazon provided the energy boost we needed, and soon we were back on the road, eager to see what treasures the day held. Our first cultural stop was at Wat Charoentham Nimit. This temple complex boasts a uniquely shaped chedi, its contours and details revived with a fresh coat of vibrant paint that shimmered under the morning sun. The artistic use of colour and form gave the structure a contemporary flair while still remaining true to its traditional roots. We spent some time walking around the spacious temple grounds, admiring the interplay of light and shadow on the intricately decorated walls and soaking in the placid atmosphere.
Not long after, our journey led us to one of the day’s most captivating finds: Wat Khao Angkhan. This temple complex, built in the style reminiscent of Angkor Wat, is set on the slopes of ancient volcanoes, seemingly emerging from the mists of time.
The site, remarkably well-preserved, was a quiet haven with few visitors around, allowing us to wander amongst its weathered stone structures in peaceful solitude. Lush greenery clung to the ruins, and the dramatic views from high among the mountains offered an expansive panorama of the surrounding countryside—a true feast for the eyes and the soul.
Our next stop, Wat Pa Lahan Sai, provided an entirely different sensory experience. Brightly coloured and set beside a small, tranquil lake, the temple radiated warmth and joy. The vivid hues of its walls and the reflective surface of the water created a lively, almost otherworldly scene. We lingered by the lakeshore, watching local devotees and visitors alike find quiet moments of reflection amid the playful interplay of colour and light.
Following these enriching stops, our route took us along Road 3446 near Nong Waeng. As we continued, we encountered a Thai Border Base where we discovered that the road was only open during festive periods. The border guards wore smiles and shared a friendly banter with us; the brief delay turned into an unexpected mini-adventure. We took the opportunity to snap some candid photos as mementos of the quirky experience, and then retraced our steps in a northwest direction to get back on track.
By mid-afternoon, we arrived at Sdok Kok Thom Historical Park, a site steeped in Khmer heritage. The park is a sprawling collection of ancient temples and ruins, where each weathered stone holds secrets of a long-lost civilisation. We ambled through the central complex, tracing our fingers along carvings that had witnessed centuries of change. The quiet majesty of this historical park allowed us to feel the deep cultural echoes of the past, reinforcing the rich historical tapestry of this region.
Continuing along our favourite stretch of road 3446, which hugs the Cambodian border, we found ourselves navigating numerous military checkpoints. At times, it even seemed as if we had stepped outside Thailand entirely, with navigational apps momentarily confused by the change in scenery. The local farmlands stretched out unabated, the patchwork of rice paddies and small farms testifying to the enduring vitality of the countryside.
As the late afternoon edged toward evening, we reached the Ban Kwong Luk Border Crossing. This stop offered a stark and striking contrast to the serene temples and peaceful farmlands we had just visited. Just across the border lay Poipet, a bustling Cambodian town lit up by flashy neon signs. The city was a sensory overload, with enormous casinos, grand hotels, and enormous night markets buzzing with activity. The streets teemed with people, many of whom crossed by on their daily commutes—each a tiny part of Poipet’s relentless energy. The sight of Poipet, with its dazzling lights, loud streets, and impressive urban scale, was a vivid reminder of how borders can divide worlds that feel both distinct and intimately connected.
8 December 2024: A Day from Aranyaprathet to the Gulf of Thailand
We set off at around 9am from Aranyaprathet, full of anticipation for the new adventures ahead.
Our first stop was Prasat Khao Noi, a hilltop site that offered breathtaking views across the border. From here, the expansive panorama laid bare Poipet, Cambodia in all its vastness—a reminder of the scale and richness of the regions that lie just beyond our everyday maps.
Back on Route 3067, we continued our journey towards Trat. Along this stretch, the border spectacularly follows the Nam Sai Canal, winding through the landscape much like a Norwegian fjord. The flowing water and rugged outlines of the canal created a dramatic, almost otherworldly backdrop that made the drive exceptionally scenic.
Before long, we arrived at Wat Mae Ya Som at around 10:30am. This temple, still under construction, revealed hints of grand ambitions. Even in its partially completed state, it exuded a vibrant street appeal that drew our attention. The commitment and warmth of the resident monk were evident in his kind eyes—every detail spoke of a deep care for his followers and the community he serves.
A short while later, we pulled into a PTT for fuel and a well-timed break. The gentle buzz of local conversations and the scent of fresh coffee provided a pleasant pause amidst our spirited drive.
After this, we also took a moment to check out the Banpuggard Checkpoint, another border crossing that added a layer of intrigue to our journey as we witnessed the everyday yet fascinating routines of cross-border life.
By 2:30pm, we reached our hotel, which would serve as our base for the next three nights. Settling in provided a comforting sense of home after our long drive, and we took a moment to appreciate the blend of modern comforts within this vibrant region.
With a spare afternoon at hand, we set our sights west towards the Gulf of Thailand to catch a stunning sunset. Our destination was Laem Sok Pier, an immense structure that seemed to stretch out endlessly into the ocean. Standing on the pier with the sea breeze in our hair, we watched as the sky transformed into a mosaic of warm, glowing colours. The sunset over the gulf was simply brilliant—a fitting, serene end to a day rich with discovery and contrast.
9 December 2024: Chasing Hidden Corners and the Narrow Side of Thailand
Sometimes you find a little slice of the map that insists on being explored, and today was just that kind of day. We left Trat, venturing east in search of the border checkpoint that marks Thailand’s narrowest point, and a few hidden gems along the way.
Our first stop was a serene beach near Nong Khao Lan, quietly maintained by the military. The stretch of sand was pristine and inviting, a quiet haven away from the bustling tourist spots, and just the right place to appreciate the simple beauty of Thailand’s coastline.
Shortly after, around 10am, we arrived at Khlong Mai Rut—a charming, pretty little village set beside the Mai Rut Canal. We took our time meandering along its shaded lanes, swapping smiles and friendly nods with the locals. There’s something authentic and refreshing about real, unscripted interactions in these intimate settings, a gentle reminder of the warmth that lies at the heart of Thai culture.
By noon, we reached what could easily be described as the “narrowest part of Thailand.” In Trat Province, the country narrows to just 450 metres wide—a fascinating quirk of geography that left us marvelling at nature’s surprises. Standing there, it was impossible not to feel a sense of wonder at how the landscape can change so dramatically in a single stretch.
At about 12:30pm, we pulled into the Khlong Yai Border Checkpoint. This isn’t just any checkpoint—it’s home to the very first (and seemingly the last) 7-Eleven and Cafe Amazon in the area, marking the easternmost border of Thailand. It was a curious little capsule of modern convenience and border culture that encapsulated the blend of local life and global brands.
Around 1pm, feeling a mix of accomplishment and curiosity, we started making our way back up the coast to Trat. Today felt particularly significant as we had longed to set foot in this part of Thailand, and we were ticking a major bucket list item along the way.
Our journey continued with a stop at Chalalai Pier where we simply watched the local fishing boats going about their daily business. The rhythmic bounce of the boats, the quiet chatter of fishermen, and the gentle sway of the pier offered a grounding pause in an otherwise brisk day of exploration.
By 3pm, we found a cosy spot at Lotus’s for a relaxed late lunch—a perfect refuelling break before our final chosen destination of the day. With full tummies and contented smiles, we made our way to Laem Ngop to catch the sun setting over the vast ocean. Laem Ngop is the “The Farthest Point of the Eastern Land” in Trat Province.
The twilight hues melted into the horizon, painting the sky in soft, fading colours, and were a beautiful end note to a day of discovery on Thailand’s narrow side.
