9 January 2026 – Day 57 — Giant Buddhas, UFO Temples & Ayutthaya Sunset Fun
Day 57 began with a visit to what must be one of the longest reclining Buddhas in Thailand — a massive 219‑metre‑long figure at Phra Putthasi Sayart. We’ve been here before, but the progress since our last visit is impressive. The scale still takes your breath away.
Our next stop was the extraordinary UFO‑domed temple of Wat Phra Phuttha Saeng Tham. Even though no obvious work has been done in recent years, it remains one of the most mind‑boggling structures in Thailand. The architecture is unlike anything else — futuristic, surreal — and the enormous Buddha inside only adds to the sense of wonder.
From there, we headed toward Pathum Thani to check on the early setup for UnderUp 2026. As always, the speed at which the Thais build an event is astonishing. Today there was just a single Ferris wheel and the beginnings of a stage, but we know from experience that in a few days it will look completely transformed.
Next stop was our hotel for the night — a chance for an afternoon rest before the evening’s outing.
Just after 4pm, we drove to Ayutthaya for sunset, markets, and dinner. We wandered through a street market we’ve explored in previous years, still lively and full of colour. At the back of the market is a great little sit‑down area for local food, and that’s where we settled in for dinner: Massaman Curry, Panang Curry, and a Chang for Steve.
The café owner was a character — friendly, funny, and instantly engaged. Alison sketched a quick cartoon of him, which absolutely delighted him. Before we knew it, we were taking photos of all the café staff and cartooning each one. Laughter all around. A simple moment turned into a highlight of the day.
Day 57 was a mix of giant Buddhas, UFO temples, event‑site curiosity, and a joyful evening in Ayutthaya — the kind of day that reminds us why we love travelling here.
10 January 2026 – Day 58 — UnderUp 2026: Noise, Neon & A Thousand Horsepower Smiles
After a night on an extremely soft bed, we woke early and headed straight for Pathum Thani Speedway — today was the long‑awaited UnderUp 2026. By 9am, setup had progressed a little, but there was still plenty left to finish before the 1pm opening. Typical Thailand: somehow it always comes together.
We rolled into the speedway at 9:15am, and it felt like stepping into a living, breathing car carnival. The officials greeted us like old friends — they remembered us from last year — and even spoiled us by bringing our media credentials directly to us, a gesture that made us feel genuinely appreciated.
Not long after, some of our friends from previous years came over with better earplugs — proper ones — and thank goodness they did. With the speaker vans warming up, they were definitely appreciated and absolutely required.
Cars were everywhere:
Lamborghinis, Lotuses, hot rods, flame‑throwing turbo builds, Porsches, slammed compacts, racing ambulances, modified taxis — if it had wheels, someone had customised it. The 4×4 turnout was smaller this year, but everything else more than made up for it.
One whole zone was dominated by speaker vans and utes — at least fifty of them — each one a rolling nightclub. LEDs, strobes, lasers, subs so deep they rattled your ribs. Neon glowed under cars, inside cabins, around engine bays. Bears and toys perched on roofs. The air smelled of rubber, kebabs and petrol.
And tucked among the wild builds were some of our absolute favourites:
Pixar‑style cars, including a brilliant Lightning McQueen and a wonderfully scruffy Rusty Tow Truck straight out of Cars. Pure joy.
Michelin ran a gymkhana that was a proper crowd‑pleaser: two drivers, one cone course, and a frantic dash for the fastest time. Tyres smoked, turbos whooshed, crowds cheered — pure, noisy, adrenaline‑fuelled fun.
At one point we noticed a man surrounded by tight security, escorted through the crowds to the VIP areas. Everyone watched, curious — but interestingly, no one could tell us who he was. A little mystery added to the day. It turned out this was Lord Edward Davenport, an English fraudster, socialite and property developer nicknamed Fast Eddie. (Thank you Wikipedia for solving that – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Edward_Davenport_(born_1966)
We also noticed someone not there this year — Chad from CB Media. He’s been a regular presence in past years, so his absence stood out.
Beyond the cars, the whole place felt like a festival.
A Ferris wheel lit up the dusk.
A stage blasted live Thai music.
Fireworks closed the night with a bang.
Short, brutal drag sprints kept everyone leaning forward.
Food and drink stalls were everywhere — including free ice cream and beer station to us from one of the exhibiters, That kept us smiling. Lunch was kebabs, thanks to Llorente, who turned out to be an absolute legend.
We spent time with our mates from Stacked Imports — always friendly — and caught up with the VW Herbie Beetles crew, though Amy was missed back in Buriram. Llorente from the US was also great company; we chatted for hours as the party built around us.
The visual overload was glorious:
– A Lamborghini with gold wheels
– Cars wrapped like Iron Man
– A tow‑truck styled like a cartoon character
– Engine bays polished like jewellery
– LED strips tracing undercarriages
– Neon tubes lighting interiors
– Even lights mounted on engines
Models and showgirls added a bit of glam, but the real stars were the builders and crews — people who’d poured time, money and personality into every panel and pipe. Kids pointed at flame‑spitting turbos. Photographers crouched in the dust chasing the perfect shot.
CLICK HERE FOR THE PHOTOSAnd the sound — the sound was its own character.
Speaker vans pumping bass that could wake the dead.
The stage mixing pop, EDM and Thai rock.
Blow‑off valves, turbo chirps, rev limiters and tyre squeal weaving through everything.
By nightfall, lasers and LEDs turned the speedway into a neon playground, and the lingering smell of burning rubber from the gymkhana hung in the air.
It was loud.
It was messy.
It was chaotic.
It was absolutely alive.
UnderUp 2026 delivered exactly what we came for — and left us buzzing long after the lights went out.
11 January 2026 – Day 59 — A Long Way to Go & A Short Time to Get There
Today felt a bit like Smokey and the Bandit — a long way to go and a short time to get there, just without the speeding. We were up early and on the road by 8am, settling in for a full day of driving.
Traffic was heavy in patches, slowing things down more than expected. The only real hiccup of the day was KFC, which somehow managed to take over 40 minutes to produce two burgers. Possibly the slowest fast food in Thailand.
We rolled into Kalasin at 4pm, checked into our hotel, and headed straight back out to get our 10,000 steps done for the day. A good stretch after hours in the car.
Dinner was at a little café we found nearby — krapow moo kai dao for food, and a Chang for Steve. Simple, tasty, and exactly what we needed after a long day on the road.
Day 59 was all about distance, patience, and ending the day with something warm, spicy and satisfying.
12 January 2026 – Day 60 — Giant Chedis, Endless Steps & A Walt Disney Temple (Almost)
The day started with a small breakfast mix‑up — our omelette never arrived — but we didn’t let that slow us down. Today was finally the day we visited Wat Pa Matchimawat, a place we’ve somehow missed every time we’ve stayed in Kalasin. And wow… we had no idea what we’d been missing.
The Great Pagoda of Kalasin City is absolutely enormous. You can see it rising above the surrounding rice fields long before you reach it. Inside, even though construction isn’t finished, it’s already incredible. We climbed the internal staircase — nine floors, 459 steps — winding upward inside the vast bell‑shaped structure.
The scale is staggering:
• Base width: 90.5 metres
• Height: 138 metres
• Circumference: 284.3 metres
For comparison, Phra Pathommachedi in Nakhon Pathom is 120.5 metres tall with a circumference of 235.5 metres. This one is bigger in every direction.
Inside, the acoustics are surreal. The bell shape amplifies whispers, and when you strike the plate‑like gong, the sound rings out forever. A real “wow” moment.
Our next stop was Wat Putthawas (Putthasathan Phu Sing) — home to 654 steps. Here we go again.
It didn’t take us long, and we were rewarded with sweeping views from the top. Sadly, visibility wasn’t great due to smoke and declining air quality, but it was still worth the climb.
From there we drove across the Thep Suda Bridge. The dam is incredibly full — a huge change from our first visit years ago. In true Thai fashion, the number of floating fish farms and cafés has exploded. There’s even a herd of dinosaurs and two floating dinosaur cafés now. Thailand never disappoints.
Next was Wat Phatthana Nimit, a temple we first discovered years ago when it felt like stepping into a Walt Disney film — bunnies, peacocks, deer everywhere. This year, only the peacocks remained, strutting around like they owned the place.
As we were leaving, a funeral procession approached. We stopped our car, go out and stood respectfully at the roadside, and waited for it to pass.
Then it was back to Kalasin for lunch and an afternoon rest before heading out for a light meal. A big day of climbing, exploring, and temple‑hopping.
While resting, we hit another snag — Airbnb cancelled our Chiang Mai accommodation. Another little issue in what has been the year of small but persistent travel hiccups. We spent part of the afternoon finding a new place to stay. Hopefully that’s the last of the surprises for a while.
13 January 2026 – Day 61 — Mountains, Monks, Lotus Lakes & a Red Cross Festival Surprise
Today we continued our journey through Isan, heading toward Sakon Nakhon — one of our favourite places in this part of Thailand. After a great breakfast, we were on the road by 9am.
Breakfast itself was a highlight: served on a scalding hot metal pan, two perfectly fried eggs topped with slices of sweet Chinese sausage, minced pork, chunks of Vietnamese‑style pork sausage, and slithers of spring onion. Simple, sizzling, delicious.
We took our time on the drive, stopping at PTT for morning tea before climbing into the mountains along a winding road. The signage was interesting — clearly there are times when monkeys are plentiful, with reminders not to feed the monkeys.
Around noon, we stopped at Wat Phra Phutthabat Namthip. As soon as we arrived, we were greeted by a visiting monk and a friendly group of locals. They invited us to sit with them, and we shared sweet egg soft buns while chatting and laughing together. They even invited us to stay for lunch and return tomorrow for the memorial service of Phra Ajarn Boonmee Khemadhammo. Their warmth was genuine and memorable.
After saying our goodbyes, we explored the grounds, including the impressive 119 large white Buddha statues arranged across the hillside. From there, we continued on to Robinsons for lunch.
Next, we visited the local lake, which was full of lotus lilies — a calm, beautiful spot that always feels uniquely Sakon Nakhon.
We checked into our hotel around 3pm for a rest before heading out again in the early evening.
Around 6pm, we set off for a walk and unexpectedly stumbled upon the Red Cross Festival. The atmosphere was lively and colourful — dancers performing on stage, a band playing, stalls and shops everywhere, and that unmistakable Thai market energy. We enjoyed a light meal while soaking it all in.
On our way back to the hotel, we met Don from Canada and Martin from the UK — two friendly travellers who added a nice social finish to the evening.
Day 61 was gentle, warm, and full of small surprises — mountain roads, kind people, lotus lakes, and a festival we didn’t even know was happening. A classic Sakon Nakhon day.
14 January 2026 – Day 62 — A Smoggy Morning, a Sacred Farewell & A Beautiful Day Among Friends
After a good night’s sleep and our essential morning coffee, we headed out for a walk through the morning markets. The day was still smoggy, but the temperature was lovely — soft, cool, and calm.
Because we planned to attend the memorial service for Phra Ajarn Boonmee Khemadhammo, we decided on an early lunch and a short visit to Nam Phung Dam before returning to the temple. The dam was peaceful, and the quiet moment set the tone for the afternoon.
We arrived at Wat Phra Phutthabat Namthip around 12:30pm and joined the locals in a large tent overlooking the monk’s coffin. From where we sat, we could see some of the 119 large white Buddha statues and a tent filled with monks preparing for the ceremony.
Phra Ajarn Boonmee Khemadhammo passed away in October 2025, aged just 50, before completing much of his life’s work. His death was caused by a brain tumour, and the sense of loss among the community was clear — but so was the warmth.
The service had begun at noon.
At 1pm, the monks began to chant the funeral chant and spoke about the monk’s good life. The crowd was large and diverse — monks, villagers, schoolchildren, and people who had travelled long distances to be there. People ate, drank water and juices, and the atmosphere was upbeat and happy, not sombre. Respectful, but full of life.
Then came the moment when the crowd presented flowers and offerings to the coffin. The monks placed the coffin into the brick cremation chamber and lit it. The fire caught quickly, and the crowd stepped back as the structure burned. Through it all, there was respect, calmness, and gentle laughter. No loud music, no chaos — just a community celebrating a life lived well.
Around this time, our monk friend found us in the crowd — Phra Sethakit Suwannothangoon. He guided us closer to the ceremony and encouraged us to take photos to honour his friend’s passing. It was a privilege to be welcomed so warmly.
As the event wound down, we sat with everyone, sharing smiles and stories. It was beautiful to see so much joy woven into a farewell.
One of the monks presented Steve with a traditional Thai carry bag, a gesture full of kindness.
Alison brought laughter with her AI characters, delighting the group and adding a touch of fun to the afternoon.
We arrived back in Sakon Nakhon around 6pm, walked out for a simple dinner, and spent the evening talking about the extraordinary day we had been so deeply part of.
Day 62 was meaningful, gentle, and unforgettable — a rare chance to witness a community’s love, respect, and celebration of a life lived with purpose.
15 January 2026 – Day 63 — 491 Steps, Smoggy Views & A Festival Stroll
This morning we caught up with Martin, our Dutch expat friend, before setting off for the day’s main challenge: the 491 steps up to Phra That Phu Phek.
The temple is a 700‑year‑old unfinished Khmer structure, abandoned before completion because something wasn’t quite right in its construction. The stairs are steep — very steep — but it’s a great workout. Near the top, we were met by a local monk, who welcomed us warmly and showed us around the site. His quiet pride in the place added something special to the visit.
From the summit, the view was genuinely beautiful, even though today the smog levels were high again, softening the landscape and hiding some of the distant detail.
After the climb, we headed back to Lotus’s for lunch before returning to the hotel for a rest. It was also a good chance to catch up on some admin — mainly photo transfers for the trip, which Alison hadn’t done since Christmas. A big job, but satisfying once done.
By 6pm, it was time for our evening walk and another wander through the festival. The atmosphere was lively as always — music, lights, stalls, and that familiar Thai market energy.
Dinner was at a local diner. We haven’t eaten at too many markets this year; we’ve found the food from small local cafés tends to be better quality — less sugary, less oily, and more consistent. A simple, tasty way to end the day.
Day 63 was a mix of effort, smog‑softened scenery, a kind monk’s welcome, admin victories, and a gentle evening in Sakon Nakhon — a good balance all round.