South to Trang

28 December 2024: A Day of Hectic Highways, Unusual Trucks, and Festival Lights

At 10am, we said our goodbyes to the wonderful folks at our hotel (in Khiri Khan), bidding farewell with mixed feelings as we prepared to continue our journey. Just 45 minutes down the highway toward Surat Thani, our friend rang us up with some surprising news: we had left our passport bag behind. We were incredibly lucky that Chris was quick on the uptake—without her, we could have been in a very tricky situation that night, scrambling to check in without our passports. Thank you, Chris, for saving the day!

Determined to sort the mix-up, we turned the car around and headed back to Khiri Khan. Along the way, we faced a taste of what a Thai holiday traffic upheaval can be: heavy congestion that seemed to stretch step after step down the highway.

As if the traffic jams weren’t enough, our attention was frequently drawn to some of the unusual trucks on the road. One in particular caught our eye—a large truck loaded with over 200-litre drums, its cargo arranged in a way that was both impressive and a little bewildering. The day was growing more eventful by the hour as the traffic stacked up, and as accidents and rainy weather compounded the delays, we opted for some back roads to ease our journey.

Our first back-road stop was at Wat Wichit Ditatharam, a unique temple set against a backdrop of a dramatic mountainous cliff. The site was undeniably beautiful; however, we quickly discovered that the steps were extremely slippery, making any climb a challenge best admired rather than attempted. After this brief, yet memorable pause, we pressed on.

By close to 5pm, we checked into our new hotel. With the excitement of the day still buzzing in our ears, we barely had time to unpack before we set out for dinner and the Surat Thani Light Festival. The festival was a delight—wandering among the shimmering lighting displays along the river in central Surat Thani was pure magic. The vibrant lights dancing on the water, the gentle hum of the evening crowd, and the cool air made for an enchanting escape from the day’s earlier turbulence.

On our journey home from the festival, we encountered a couple of great new faces—Ray and Sam.

These fellow travellers, who had been motorbike riding from Chiang Mai, enriched our evening as we gathered about a few changs and nibbles with lively conversation. Stories flowed as easily as the drinks, with tales of past adventures, unexpected detours, and dreams of future escapades filling the night air.

29 December 2024: Rain, Reflections, and Riverside Adventures

Today began with our return drive out of Surat Thani—a journey that quickly reminded us that the weather here has a personality of its own. As we pulled away from the city limits, the skies opened up and rain began to fall steadily. The downpour brought minor flooding along the road, and we couldn’t help but notice a few vehicles struggling with the slippery conditions. One unfortunate driver even ended up on a median strip, stuck against a sign post after a series of wet-weather missteps.

Our first stop took us to the swollen Tha Thong Canal, a striking sight where houses hovered dangerously close to the water’s edge. The scene was both impressive and slightly surreal: water level so high that everyday life seemed to dance on the brink. As we lingered to capture the scene, a group of kids on their motorbike joyfully rode past, pausing only to pose for a picture—a reminder that even under challenging conditions, life moves forward with a bit of fun and spontaneity.

Around 11am, it was time for a quick pit-stop at a PTT fuel station to refill our vehicle—affectionately dubbed ‘Fortuna’ for all the fortunate twists we’ve experienced lately. With the tank topped up and spirits lifted, we continued on until noon when we reached Wat Khao Suwan Pradit.

Known for its breathtaking vistas, this temple offered yet another opportunity to marvel at the beauty of the landscape. The memory of our previous visit, when the weather was drier, was quickly replaced by today’s equally moist, yet equally inspiring, atmosphere—proof that sometimes the rain only adds to the allure of a place.

Our next venture led us into Don Sak, where we strolled through the local streets to soak up the everyday sights and sounds.

The walk was a peaceful interlude, offering a glimpse into local life and a chance to breathe in the unique atmosphere of the area. With the day gently winding down, we made our way back to Surat Thani, arriving at the BigC shopping centre by around 5pm for an early dinner. Here, amidst the hum of evening activities, we rounded off another day in this diverse and ever-surprising region.

30 December 2024: A Day of Detours, Delightful Discoveries, and Festive Anticipation

We set off early from Surat Thani at 8:30am, our excitement building as we headed towards Trang. The drive through the countryside was peaceful, with winding back roads that offered scenic vistas and a quiet start to our day.

Not long into our journey, an eye-catching sight pulled our attention—a temple with an extraordinary design that stood tall even from afar.

Curiosity led us to take a detour to Phrathat Chumlamani Phan Rang Si Mani Kaeo. What we encountered was nothing short of enchanting.

Unlike any typical Thai temple we had seen before, its unique architecture and intricate details captured our imaginations instantly. Arriving around noon, we were greeted with warm hospitality. A local lady, smiling and eager to share her knowledge, guided us around the temple in her own special style, using her broken English to bridge the language gap. It was an experience defined by genuine connection—an illustration of how beauty and kindness transcend words.

The highlight of the visit came when we were invited to meet the head monk responsible for the temple’s creation. With the help of a generous local translator, we enjoyed a fascinating thirty-minute conversation. We discussed everything from the philosophical ideas behind the temple’s design to his personal journey and vision for his spiritual sanctuary. The exchange left us feeling both grateful and inspired, a reminder of how travel can open doors to unexpected moments of insight and reflection.

Refreshed and enriched by our encounter, we continued our journey to Trang. By 2:15pm, we reached Robinsons Trang for a delightful lunch. We savoured a delicious plate of Pad Krapow Moo, the bold flavours and fragrant basil a perfect pick-me-up after our long drive and soul-stirring temple visit.

Once our appetites were satisfied and our energy replenished, we checked into our hotel at 3:30pm. The comfort and familiarity of our temporary home provided a welcome pause, allowing us time to relax and reflect on the day’s adventures before the evening festivities began to beckon.

At 7pm, our footsteps carried us to Trang City Center Market. The market was alive with energy—live music hummed in the background and traditional Thai food stalls offered up an array of tantalising treats. As we wandered among the colours, sounds, and aromas, the vibrant spirit of the city filled us with festive excitement.

Our stroll continued through Trang’s Clock Tower area, a landmark that promises to become the heart of tomorrow’s New Year’s Eve celebrations. The air was thick with anticipation, and we found ourselves envisioning the joyful countdown that would soon unite locals and visitors alike in ringing in a brand-new year.

31 December 2024: West Coast Wanderings and New Year’s Eve Magic

Today, we set our sights on the west coast, eager for a change of scenery as we made our way toward Mai Fat. Along the way, we were pleasantly surprised to find so many locals already camping out in festive spirit for New Year’s Eve.

The narrow roadways were transformed by an array of festive stalls and food outlets, which made for a charming—if occasionally challenging—driving experience.

Our adventure truly began at Pak Meng Pier. There, a series of playful dolphin statues and a breathtaking ocean view greeted us.

The pier provided a perfect pause along our journey, inviting us to take in the serene maritime scene before we continued south along the coast. We drove past quaint fishing villages that offered us a glimpse into local life, all as the sky gradually shifted toward evening hues.

At around 2pm, we arrived in Katang and watched the local car ferry arrive at the pier. We took a walk around town, enjoying the vibrant street murals that adorned the town.

This delightful detour added a splash of art and culture to our continuous journey as we edged closer to the coast. By approximately 4:15pm, we reached Samran Beach and began a drive along the shoreline toward Laem Tase stopped at some of the many fishing boats pulled up on the beach.

Soon, the weather took a dramatic turn. A magnificent storm began to form overhead, and by 5pm, the darkened sky gave way to a sudden downpour that had nightfall arriving early. Undeterred, we pressed on despite the thick, heavy rainfall, making our way back toward Trang by 5:15pm.

Our perseverance was rewarded when we reached Cinta Garden at 6pm. There, a satisfying dinner and a couple of Chang beers helped us unwind and smile in anticipation of the night ahead. By 8pm, we immersed ourselves in the lively celebration at Trang Clocktower, where a spirited Thai band filled the air with upbeat rock music amid a dazzling display of colorful lights. The festive atmosphere was palpable, even as an impressive security presence reminded us that the celebrations were well managed.